HST Warrior Summit on Mount Baker!

We're proud to announce that all 11 climbers of the HST's first Wounded Warrior climb reached the summit of Mount Baker on August 21st, 2011! Our inaugural Wounded Warrior climb was a huge success for all that supported us and for all involved. I can't say enough about how proud I am of our Warrior Climbers. They really pushed themselves to the physical and mental limit in order to safely summit this mountain. Not only did they face the normal physical hardships of mountaineering, they did so while battling their own physical and mental wounds as well. These are some of the toughest people I know.

HST Leader Mike Pickerel began the week by "Sherpa'ing" supplies to our camp at 6500 feet on Baker. He made several trips from the trail head to to the camp throughout the week in support of the climb. He was joined by HST leader Joshua Brandon and the Warrior Climbers Friday afternoon, after a relaxed, but heavy climb to camp with the rest of the gear. After establishing camp, we enjoyed a meal of sausage, rice, peppers, and Sweet Baby Ray's on tortillas for dinner, and then turned in for a good nights sleep. 

After enjoying some extra sleep Saturday morning, the climbers immediately set out learning some mountaineering skills. After a gear class, they went over the critical mountaineering knots. After lunch...snow school. The HST repeatedly rehearsed self arrest, glacial movement, crevasse rescue, and a few other climbing skills. Some highlights of the class were Lou's day-glow jacket from 1985 and some dramatic self arrests in the slushy snow. Right before dinner, the HST support climbers arrived just in time for a quick rehearsal and a dinner of mac'n'cheese, sausage, and peppers on tortillas. Mike Pickerel received full compliments on another amazing meal, although he also lost a bet on which mountain was which in the distance. (As of today he has yet to settle that debt.) Before turning in at 6 PM, the group made final equipment checks, prepped the ropes, and crawled into our bags. 

An excited team jumped out of their bags at midnight to start prepping for the climb. As with most climbs, everyone slowed down a bit when the cold hit them outside of their warm bags. After a quick breakfast and final gear checks, we roped up and set off up the mountain. The warriors kept a strong steady pace, climbing for 60 minutes and breaking for 10 at a time. The previous two days of climbing and training, as well as the lack of sleep and cold weather, immediately began to impact the team. All involved showed a lot of heart and toughness in climbing steadily upward through the pain and exhaustion. Just below the crater rim, the team ran into its only major climbing problem of the day. While Team Rabbit was crossing a well traveled crevasse, Kevin Burke fell into the crevasse when the ledge gave out. I was extremely proud of the warrior climbers Jacqueline Bruhn and Mike Grover, who immediately reacted by executing a rope team arrest on the far side of the crevasse. With the ropes tight and Kevin executing a perfect self arrest, he soon climbed up and out, and we climbed on. We made it to the crater rim a little after sunrise, and everyone's spirits picked up at the site of the summit in the distance. We tackled the famed Roman Wall in three teams; all of which made it up and over like pros. Tired and hungry, the team pushed over the last few hundred yards of the top and dropped out gear below the summit. After a quick bite to eat and a drink of water, the team climbed the final feet together to reach the summit. 

On the top, happy but tired climbers congratulated one another, took some pictures, and signed the register.  Dan Shoemaker honored two of our fallen comrades, CPL Chris Yauch and SGT Israel O'Bryan (KIA Jalula Iraq, 11 June, 2010), and CPT Brandon Trapp proudly supported his 101st Airborne (Air Assault), signed by his fellow soldiers and family after he was wounded in action in Afghanistan. It was an especially amazing moment for him as one year ago to the day he was wounded in action in Afghanistan. Brandon demonstrated just how tough of a warrior he is by accomplishing so difficult a task while in the midst of his recovery.

Once off the summit, the team redistributed some loads, roped up, and headed back down the wall. The climbers soon learned that reaching the summit is only half the climb as the Roman wall soon proved to be more difficult in down climbing than going up. Dan and Brandon on Team Rhino fought through the pain and frustration of moving down the wall, all the while supported by Mike Pickerel and Lou McGranaghan. Once we climbed out of the wind storm on the crater rim, we finally set back for a well deserved break. From here, team rabbit pushed down the mountain ahead of team Rhino and the support climbers in order to prepare more water and break down the camp. After a long down climb which was compared to the Bataan Death March at one point, the entire HST met up at camp. 

After breaking down camp, we hit the last leg of the trip. On the way the HST leaders gave a tour of notable locations from previous climbs such as Gnome City, the Hippie Lunch Counter, and Battle Camp. After an endless walk towards the trail head, we made it to the cars. We packed up, checked in with the rangers, and had a celebratory meal at Bob's Burgers & Brews in Burlington. 

First, I'd like to take the time to recognize our Wounded Warrior climbers again. Every time I climb with you I''m humbled by your toughness and dedication. I'm proud of you all, and I look forward to climbing with you again in the future. I'd also like to give a special thanks to our support climbers (Joshua Betty, Dave Fierner, Niki Evans, Kevin Burke, and Lou McGranahan), without your strong backs, watchful eyes, and patience, the climb would not have happened. I'd like to also thank our sponsors Outdoor Research, Sterling Ropes, Jansport, Minus 33 Degrees, Nalgene, MSR & Cascade Designs, and JBLM MWR. You made this climb possible with your support. Thank you from the team and from our Warrior climbers. 

Fortunately for the HST, the season is not quite over. We are already getting ready for the final climbs of the season through September and October.

HST Summit!

Brandon Trapp and Dan Shoemaker proudly fly the Screaming Eagle!

Joshua Brandon, Mike Pickerel, and Dan Shoemaker on the Summit.

Mike makes some dinner chow.

Snow school. Dan Shoemaker, Mike Grover, Joshua Brandon,
and Lou McGranaghan.

Lou navigates a crevasse.

Niki on break.

Down climbing the wall.

Jacqueline on the Summit.

Team Rhino and the Support Team down climbing.

Final Baker Coordinations

HST climbers! The Baker climb is here! We'll meet at the WTB on JBLM at 0845. After a quick head count, we'll move out for Baker. We'll have the WTB van for transportation. I will also ride up with the support climbers.

We will stop in Seedro Woolley for a quick bite, register with the rangers, and do a final gear check. After that its up to the trailhead.

Make sure you let me know when you pickup your gear, and your packinglist is complete.

A few final points: Bring hiking pants / shorts and hiking shoes for the movement from the trailhead to camp. Plastic boots will be miserable below the snow. Make sure you bring food for snacks, lunch, and breakfast. We will have rice, spam, bell peppers, and sweet baby rays for dinners. We will hit up a dive on the way back.

Call me with any last minute issues.

JB

Warrior Climb Info

Warrior Climbers - Over the next week I will be sending out info on the climb.

We are on for 19-21 August at Baker. We will meet at 0600 at the WTB parking lot, then move up to Mount Baker NF to the trail head for the Easton Glacier . We will meet Mike at the trail head, then push up to camp. That afternoon we will set up camp, eat, and get some rest. The next day we will wake early and do a snow / ice school at camp. Followed by a dinner, we will turn in early for a midnight first call with a 0100 start time for the climb. The climb itself should take 7-11 hours depending on the teams speed and conditions. Once back from the summit, we will rest, pack up camp, then head down to the car. We'll stop on Highway 20 at Birdsview Brewing for burgers and beer, then head back down to JBLM. We'll be back Sunday evening.

The weather has been awesome, just remember that if we get hit with a storm, we have the option to bump a day to the 22nd.

WTBs will be ridng in the van, and support climbers will carpool. Mike will be heading up ahead of time for Sherpa duties. Call me if you have any questions. 

Mike is going to reserve equipment from MWR. He is getting axes, tents, sleeping bags, hiking poles, boots, crampons, and helmets for you. Please send him your boot size today so he can make sure you are good to go. I would go up and try on the boots prior to climbing in them. 

I am picking up your packs, Nalgene Bottles, Tshirts (From Sterling), and some other stuff from TJ, so I will have it available for pickup starting on Tuesday. If you want to have it earlier for a training hike this weekend, call me to set something up for Saturday morning (early).

HST will provide you with your carabeners (locking and extra) and the harness. We will also be providing the team safety equipment and means for cooking. Please refer to the packing list for any additional info.

We're working out the final details on food, so I will put out food guidance in a couple of days. We will be cooking two group dinners on day 1 and 2, but all other meals and snacks will be your responsibility.

Unfortunately, not everyone who started training with us will be climbing with us next week (family,medical, park service). Due to restrictions by the Forrest Service on how many people we can take in the party, we've had to push two climbers into alternate status, and close the climb completely to some others who were looking to help. As of now, alternates will only go if a primary drops out. 

See the email for rope team names and spots. 

More to follow...

HST Baker Climb

Mount Baker Summit July 30th!

On July 29th and 30th , the Hound Summit Team climbed Mount Baker, Washington in preparation for its Warrior Climb in August. While our primary mission was to scout out the routes and camp sites for our wounded warriors, we also received the added benefit of climbing a classic route in amazing conditions. HST Leaders Joshua Brandon, Mike Pickerel, and TJ Laynor climbed with HST warrior climber Kevin Burke on the Easton Glacier route. We arrived before lunch on Friday, July 29th, and headed up to camp at the base of the glacier. After running Kevin through a skills seminar, we ate some chow and bedded down for the night in calm, starry conditions. After a 1AM wake up, we choked down some watered down oatmeal and set off around 2 AM. We enjoyed absolutely perfect conditions under clear skies and mild weather, reaching the summit a little after 8. The relaxed pace allowed us to enjoy the mountain (as opposed to just our feet), and to get a good fell for the route we will take for the warrior climb in August. After getting some quick pictures on the summit, we headed down the Roman Wall and hung out at the steam vents for a bit. After that, we headed back down to camp, then suffered through the never ended hike back to the car to enjoy beef and cheese sticks and a celebratory Olly. 

Conditions on Baker remain absolutely incredible due to the heavy snows this winter and the mild weather we've had this summer. We're excited to climb the mountain in August with our warriors. It will be a challenging, yet beautiful climb. 

A special thanks to Outdoor Research and Sterling ropes who provided us with some clothing and technical gear to test out on the mountain. We'd also like to give the Girls on Ice (www.girlsonice,org) program a shout out. They were climbing on Baker the same time we were, and they have what looks like a really cool program. 

Summit!

Up to the vents

Down from the Summit

Sherman Peak from the vents

Rainier in the distance